County hut
Boulderhopping in the County - Photo Nico Cogan
Maintenance Status
County Hut was originally called Kensington Hut and is referred to as such in early New Zealand Forest Service maps and documents. This name never stuck however, and County was already in common usage when I first visited in 1974. The hut is on the Permolat Group's maintain-by-community schedule with Geoff Spearpoint as lead person. The Department of Conservation flies in from time to time to do inspections and compliance tasks. In 2018 Geoff and friends did some scoping and trackwork and in '21 he got some Back Country Trust funding to do more comprehensive maintenance and trackwork. The access route up the County Stream from the Waitaha valley is legendary for its toughness and the tracked bits have been kept open at a rudimentary level by Permolat volunteers since 2006.
Location
Waitaha catchment. Map BW18. Grid Ref: E1425190/ N5219383 (BW18 252 194). Altitude 995m. The County Stream is the largest tributary of the upper Waitaha River and backs onto the pristine alpine snowfields and glaciers of the Mt Evans massif. The Hut is located on a terrace on the TR of Blomfield Creek just up from its confluence with the County. The surrounding vegetation is a mix of alpine scrub and open tussock clearings. County Hut has always been a low-use hut with visits averaging around five per year currently. Walk-ins are infrequent and in recent times a fair percentage of the visits have been fly-in hunters.
Access
The general ruggedness of the Waitaha and County catchments poses an ongoing challenge with regard to access, even when the tracked bits are in good order. The Permolat group has done several recuts of the County portions since picking up their maintenance in the mid 2000s, the last of these in May 2021.
The track from Moonbeam Hut stays high on the terraces for around 20 minutes and passes through some beautiful stands of Hall's Totara, pahautea and southern rata. It drops down a steep bank to the riverbed just before Dorothy Creek, crosses Alexander Creek, and re-enters the bush. From here it sidles along the bush faces passing a reasonable dry rock just before the Top Waitaha turnoff. The bit from Alexander Creek to the County turnoff was given a cursory recut by a DOC/ volunteer group in February 2019 but is starting to get very scrappy again. The track continues up-valley from the turnoff sidling up and around into the County valley. Apart from a couple of bits, this part of the route is still in pretty good shape. The track eventually angles down into the County hitting the riverbed at a pile of huge boulders opposite O'Reilly Creek. A flood channel is followed for 100m to the next bit of track which climbs parallel with the river before dropping back into it. From here it is very rough river travel with large boulders and a bit of wading here and there. There are some old detours in the bush here and there but they're quite hard to find currently. Upper body strength and agility are useful attributes on a short section starting at 1424596E/ 5220352N, and a short length of rope for hauling packs up might be useful. Once through this bit travel gets considerably easier.
When the river levels are low (more common in winter), the County can be crossed to avoid the gnarlier bits or get a straighter line. During the warmer months snow and glacial melt swells the river, and it is necessary to stay on the TL. The crossings over to the Hut are constantly changing, unpredictable, and should be tackled with care. The track to the Hut starts 400m up the TR of Blomfield Creek. Allow 5-6 hours from Moonbeam Hut to County Hut in good conditions. Don't attempt this route if the rivers are running high.
Canary Creek tops access
A great fine weather alternative route to County Stream exists over the Clearview Spur tops. This is accessed via an old NZFS track directly behind Moonbeam Hut, recut and marked in 2015 and retrimmed in 2021. It goes up a narrow ridge between Dorothy Creek and Moonbeam Torrent to around the 1030m contour, where it leaves the ridge and drops into the head of Dorothy Creek. The Creek by this stage is dry and the creekbed provides access through scattered alpine scrub to the open tussock. Climb in an easterly direction from here up onto a flat section of Clearview Spur just above point 1690m. There are great views from this point of Mt. Evans and the Red Lion. The County basin is accessed down the tussock faces between Canary Creek and the unnamed side-creek downriver from it. A band of alpine scrub further down can be avoided by dropping into Canary Creek around the 1130m contour and following the creekbed. Allow 4-5 hours from Moonbeam Hut to County Hut in good conditions.
County Hut has a small helicopter platform dug into the slope, just next to the Hut.
Type
County Hut was one of the last NZFS S70 six-bunk designs. It was built in 1971, is lined, has a roof-fed water tank, and a toilet. There is no fire or woodburner.
Condition
County Hut is in tip-top condition currently. Repainting and maintenance work was carried out by DOC in 2003 and a new water tank installed. Geoff Spearpoint added a door flashing and a proper door handle to supplement the bolt and did some repairs and weatherproofing around the door sill in 2018. In March 2021 He organised another work party to replace the roof ridging, gable flashing, and replace three sheets of corrugated iron with coloursteel. The clearlight was replaced and a clear plastic drip liner added. The roof's lead head nails were replaced with tech screws and storm clips. The vegetation around the Hut was cleared and all the corner piles were replaced to code with over 700kg of ready mix being prepared by hand. The roof and exterior were scraped, rust converted, primed, and top coated twice. The rainwater system was restored, window frames and sills sealed, flashed, sanded and repainted. The toilet was re levelled, re-roofed, scrubbed out, prepped and painted. Inside the Hut, some water damaged ply lining was replaced and the interior washed and painted. The helipad was cleared, extended and stabilised and the track up from the Blomfield trimmed and marked. One of the louvre panes in the end window is broken and has been wired together. The recent increase in the number of fly-in hunting parties has brough with it the usual clutter of alcohol bottles and cans, gas cannisters, and other rubbish. This is a volunteer maintained hut and it's really disappointing after all the work that we do for the outdoor community that these people are too lazy or inconsiderate to fly their rubbish out with them.
Routes
Most of the routes in the County catchment are alpine ones, and as such require reasonably high levels of experience and fitness, and appropriate gear.
There is a reasonably popular crossing from the head of the valley over into the Smyth catchment of the Wanganui River. Travel upstream from the Hut is flat and easy gravel walking initially but gets progressively more bouldery. A small gorge at the 1080m contour can be negotiated with a short climb through the alpine scrub on the TR. The basin opens out after this and there is a 2–3-person rock biv marked with a cairn around BW18 272 171 which is dry and reasonably roomy but needs levelling work. Exit the valley up the prominent side-creek that enters at E1426840/ N5217273 (BW18 268 173) and after about 400m exit this up a gut on the TL and follow it up onto a scree that leads to the bluffs just below Point 1667m. Sidle East a few hundred metres onto another steep scree that leads up to a flat bench with shattered boulders just East of the Point. Head SW along the 1600m contour and down the prominent spur that drops towards the Smyth/ Bradshaw confluence. Veer South off the spur at a flat area with tarns at 1220m and drop directly into the Smyth. Travel down the Smyth is very rough with large boulders fringed by alpine scrub. A short length of rope might be of use in a few places to lower packs and people. In winter the boulders are often ice covered and quite treacherous. There is currently a good ford of the Wanganui just above the confluence although during the spring and summer crossing can be difficult. Allow a full day from County Hut to Smyth Hut.
County Hut has a small helicopter platform dug into the slope, just next to the Hut.
Type
County Hut was one of the last NZFS S70 six-bunk designs. It was built in 1971, is lined, has a roof-fed water tank, and a toilet. There is no fire or woodburner.
Condition
County Hut is in tip-top condition currently. Repainting and maintenance work was carried out by DOC in 2003 and a new water tank installed. Geoff Spearpoint added a door flashing and a proper door handle to supplement the bolt and did some repairs and weatherproofing around the door sill in 2018. In March 2021 He organised another work party to replace the roof ridging, gable flashing, and replace three sheets of corrugated iron with coloursteel. The clearlight was replaced and a clear plastic drip liner added. The roof's lead head nails were replaced with tech screws and storm clips. The vegetation around the Hut was cleared and all the corner piles were replaced to code with over 700kg of ready mix being prepared by hand. The roof and exterior were scraped, rust converted, primed, and top coated twice. The rainwater system was restored, window frames and sills sealed, flashed, sanded and repainted. The toilet was re levelled, re-roofed, scrubbed out, prepped and painted. Inside the Hut, some water damaged ply lining was replaced and the interior washed and painted. The helipad was cleared, extended and stabilised and the track up from the Blomfield trimmed and marked. One of the louvre panes in the end window is broken and has been wired together. The recent increase in the number of fly-in hunting parties has brough with it the usual clutter of alcohol bottles and cans, gas cannisters, and other rubbish. This is a volunteer maintained hut and it's really disappointing after all the work that we do for the outdoor community that these people are too lazy or inconsiderate to fly their rubbish out with them.
Routes
Most of the routes in the County catchment are alpine ones, and as such require reasonably high levels of experience and fitness, and appropriate gear.
There is a reasonably popular crossing from the head of the valley over into the Smyth catchment of the Wanganui River. Travel upstream from the Hut is flat and easy gravel walking initially but gets progressively more bouldery. A small gorge at the 1080m contour can be negotiated with a short climb through the alpine scrub on the TR. The basin opens out after this and there is a 2–3-person rock biv marked with a cairn around BW18 272 171 which is dry and reasonably roomy but needs levelling work. Exit the valley up the prominent side-creek that enters at E1426840/ N5217273 (BW18 268 173) and after about 400m exit this up a gut on the TL and follow it up onto a scree that leads to the bluffs just below Point 1667m. Sidle East a few hundred metres onto another steep scree that leads up to a flat bench with shattered boulders just East of the Point. Head SW along the 1600m contour and down the prominent spur that drops towards the Smyth/ Bradshaw confluence. Veer South off the spur at a flat area with tarns at 1220m and drop directly into the Smyth. Travel down the Smyth is very rough with large boulders fringed by alpine scrub. A short length of rope might be of use in a few places to lower packs and people. In winter the boulders are often ice covered and quite treacherous. There is currently a good ford of the Wanganui just above the confluence although during the spring and summer crossing can be difficult. Allow a full day from County Hut to Smyth Hut.
The route down from the alpine lake in the middle branch of Reid Creek.
Access from County Hut over the Blomfield Range to Top Waitaha Hut is up a steep rib on the TR of Blomfield Creek and the col between Mt Bloomfield and Artist Dome. The side-creek on the TR of the rib is also negotiable above the two waterfalls in its lower and mid sections. It is relatively easy to traverse Mt Blomfield and there are a number of routes off the mountain into the Top Waitaha basin. Mt Blomfield's NW ridge has a steep, exposed section lower down which may be a bit difficult for some to downclimb without a rope. The ridge connects with some tussock terraces on the TL of Reid Creek, and these can be followed down to the Waitaha. There is a short scrub-bash at the foot of the terrace just above the main basin. Several other lines exist down the East faces of Blomfield from point 1857m that would provide more straightforward access to the Hut.
Another option is to drop from the col into the middle branch of Reid Creek where there is now a reasonably large ice-lake. Head slightly north of the col before dropping down to avoid a band of bluffs directly below, then sidle around the benches above the lake's TL into a narrow dry gut just West of point 1686m. This becomes a creek further down, and this is followed to the top of a waterfall around the 1500m contour. Exit on the TR here and sidle onto the steep bluffy spur between this creek and the lake's outlet creek.
The spur looks daunting from the Waitaha basin, but there is an OK route down through a series of small benches through the bluffs to where the spur flattens. Drop from the foot of the spur into the West branch of Reid Creek, cross, and climb up onto a terrace with tarns on the TL. Follow the terrace to its end and drop down to the Waitaha basin passing through a narrow band of alpine scrub at the very bottom. Times for the crossings will vary depending on fitness and conditions but allow a whole day. Some fitter types claim to have done it in five hours. There is permanent snow on Mt Bloomfield's summit and a few patches on either side of the col. The crossing can usually be done without ice axes in late summer/ autumn, but it is recommended that one be carried anyway. The route up the rib from Blomfield Creek gets no sun in winter and any snow on it is likely to get very icy.
Artist Dome is a relatively easy scramble from the either the col route or the ridge on the TL of Bloomfield Creek. A band of scrub at the bottom of the ridge can be avoided by following the Creek to around the 1150m contour, then exiting up a steep gut on its TL.
The Smyth Range can be traversed to the West from County Hut and a track down Headlong Spur provides access to Kiwi Flat Hut. Canary Creek is normally used to access Clearview Spur. There is short, eroding. exposed section just below Point 1945m that needs to be crossed with care. Mts Barry and Neville are relatively easy to traverse, and it is possible to drop roughly NW from Neville's summit onto a flat bench at 1850m and continue to sidle from there around to Headlong Spur. The Headlong Spur track has been kept open from the early '90s by volunteers. In March 2021 DOC used some Jobs for Nature funding to fly a Hiking NZ crew in to recut the track. They didn't do a very good job at the top end but at least the track is followable. It takes you down the Spur to where it connects with the Waitaha valley track on a terrace 30 minutes upriver from Kiwi Flat Hut. A crossing from County to Kiwi could theoretically be done in a long day in good conditions, however it makes more sense to take a tent and break it in two.
It is also possible to continue along the Smyth Range to Scamper Torrent Hut. There is one steep section on the Range adjacent to the Kea Glacier which is generally snow-free from late summer but would require ice axes at other times if conditions were icy. The rest of the Range is relatively easy travel and there are plenty of good campsites. Scamper Torrent is accessed by dropping in a WNW direction down some sloping benches under Mt Durward into the small basin on the lee side point 1397m. Follow the small stream from the basin to where it drops over a waterfall and continue sidling West across the tussock faces onto the broad spur bounding the TR of the main branch of Scamper Torrent. This spur has a small creek bisecting it. The high ground on either side of the creek can be followed through patchy scrub down into the main basin. The Hut is visible most of the way down. Allow a long day from the crossing from County Hut or take a tent and break it into two.
A route over to the Wilkinson catchment in the Whitcombe valley via McKenzie Col at the head of the County, should only be attempted by experienced alpinists. The Col has seasonal crevasses, permanent high rockfall danger, and the County approach is a near-vertical rock chute. The route down to Wilkinson Hut in the Whitcombe valley is untracked and very rough. The rock shelters marked on the TR of Seddon Creek are shallow overhangs, the largest of which would take two people at a squeeze. A large boulder cascade immediately below the bivs is very rough going with thick alpine scrub on the fringes, and travel is marginally easier on the TL. A second cascade in the Wilkinson just below the Seddon Creek confluence has larger boulders, scrub surrounds, and is more difficult than the first due to the increased volume of water. The river is fast flowing and opaque, and the submerged rock surfaces very slippery. Fording here is usually not an option unless you can jump the boulders and the levels usually rise significantly over the day in the warmer months with snow melt. Once the bottom of the cascade is reached the best option is to climb up into Walcott Creek and cross a large mostly open shingle fan to the toe of the ridge on the Creek's TL. A reasonable dry shelter can be found further up the Creek under a gigantic boulder. Once past the Walcott, continue down the Wilkinson on the terraces staying reasonably close to the toe of the hill. The deer trails here provide easier travel than the slippery boulders on the river's edge. The TL of the Whitcombe is followed from the Wilkinson confluence down to the Hut, mostly boulder hopping with a few small detours into the bush. This last bit takes around an hour. Allow a couple of days for this trip.
Repairs needed.
The broken louvre pane needs replacing (630x150cm).
Provisions on Site
Four billies, a large and small frypan, two wash basins, two aluminium buckets, a hand brush and shovel, a broom, a shovel and spare handle, a slasher (blunt) and spare handle, an axe and spare handle, an NZFS legacy first aid cabinet, a crowbar, a food bin, and the leftover paint in buckets. Geoff has left a bunch of tools for ongoing general maintenance and there are two wooden roof ladders under the Hut and an aluminium ladder in the loft space.
Another option is to drop from the col into the middle branch of Reid Creek where there is now a reasonably large ice-lake. Head slightly north of the col before dropping down to avoid a band of bluffs directly below, then sidle around the benches above the lake's TL into a narrow dry gut just West of point 1686m. This becomes a creek further down, and this is followed to the top of a waterfall around the 1500m contour. Exit on the TR here and sidle onto the steep bluffy spur between this creek and the lake's outlet creek.
The spur looks daunting from the Waitaha basin, but there is an OK route down through a series of small benches through the bluffs to where the spur flattens. Drop from the foot of the spur into the West branch of Reid Creek, cross, and climb up onto a terrace with tarns on the TL. Follow the terrace to its end and drop down to the Waitaha basin passing through a narrow band of alpine scrub at the very bottom. Times for the crossings will vary depending on fitness and conditions but allow a whole day. Some fitter types claim to have done it in five hours. There is permanent snow on Mt Bloomfield's summit and a few patches on either side of the col. The crossing can usually be done without ice axes in late summer/ autumn, but it is recommended that one be carried anyway. The route up the rib from Blomfield Creek gets no sun in winter and any snow on it is likely to get very icy.
Artist Dome is a relatively easy scramble from the either the col route or the ridge on the TL of Bloomfield Creek. A band of scrub at the bottom of the ridge can be avoided by following the Creek to around the 1150m contour, then exiting up a steep gut on its TL.
The Smyth Range can be traversed to the West from County Hut and a track down Headlong Spur provides access to Kiwi Flat Hut. Canary Creek is normally used to access Clearview Spur. There is short, eroding. exposed section just below Point 1945m that needs to be crossed with care. Mts Barry and Neville are relatively easy to traverse, and it is possible to drop roughly NW from Neville's summit onto a flat bench at 1850m and continue to sidle from there around to Headlong Spur. The Headlong Spur track has been kept open from the early '90s by volunteers. In March 2021 DOC used some Jobs for Nature funding to fly a Hiking NZ crew in to recut the track. They didn't do a very good job at the top end but at least the track is followable. It takes you down the Spur to where it connects with the Waitaha valley track on a terrace 30 minutes upriver from Kiwi Flat Hut. A crossing from County to Kiwi could theoretically be done in a long day in good conditions, however it makes more sense to take a tent and break it in two.
It is also possible to continue along the Smyth Range to Scamper Torrent Hut. There is one steep section on the Range adjacent to the Kea Glacier which is generally snow-free from late summer but would require ice axes at other times if conditions were icy. The rest of the Range is relatively easy travel and there are plenty of good campsites. Scamper Torrent is accessed by dropping in a WNW direction down some sloping benches under Mt Durward into the small basin on the lee side point 1397m. Follow the small stream from the basin to where it drops over a waterfall and continue sidling West across the tussock faces onto the broad spur bounding the TR of the main branch of Scamper Torrent. This spur has a small creek bisecting it. The high ground on either side of the creek can be followed through patchy scrub down into the main basin. The Hut is visible most of the way down. Allow a long day from the crossing from County Hut or take a tent and break it into two.
A route over to the Wilkinson catchment in the Whitcombe valley via McKenzie Col at the head of the County, should only be attempted by experienced alpinists. The Col has seasonal crevasses, permanent high rockfall danger, and the County approach is a near-vertical rock chute. The route down to Wilkinson Hut in the Whitcombe valley is untracked and very rough. The rock shelters marked on the TR of Seddon Creek are shallow overhangs, the largest of which would take two people at a squeeze. A large boulder cascade immediately below the bivs is very rough going with thick alpine scrub on the fringes, and travel is marginally easier on the TL. A second cascade in the Wilkinson just below the Seddon Creek confluence has larger boulders, scrub surrounds, and is more difficult than the first due to the increased volume of water. The river is fast flowing and opaque, and the submerged rock surfaces very slippery. Fording here is usually not an option unless you can jump the boulders and the levels usually rise significantly over the day in the warmer months with snow melt. Once the bottom of the cascade is reached the best option is to climb up into Walcott Creek and cross a large mostly open shingle fan to the toe of the ridge on the Creek's TL. A reasonable dry shelter can be found further up the Creek under a gigantic boulder. Once past the Walcott, continue down the Wilkinson on the terraces staying reasonably close to the toe of the hill. The deer trails here provide easier travel than the slippery boulders on the river's edge. The TL of the Whitcombe is followed from the Wilkinson confluence down to the Hut, mostly boulder hopping with a few small detours into the bush. This last bit takes around an hour. Allow a couple of days for this trip.
Repairs needed.
The broken louvre pane needs replacing (630x150cm).
Provisions on Site
Four billies, a large and small frypan, two wash basins, two aluminium buckets, a hand brush and shovel, a broom, a shovel and spare handle, a slasher (blunt) and spare handle, an axe and spare handle, an NZFS legacy first aid cabinet, a crowbar, a food bin, and the leftover paint in buckets. Geoff has left a bunch of tools for ongoing general maintenance and there are two wooden roof ladders under the Hut and an aluminium ladder in the loft space.