Smyth Hut
The Wanganui above Smyth Hut: Photo Andrew Buglass 2019
Maintenance Status
Smyth Hut and access route are fully maintained by the Department of Conservation Franz Josef.
Location
Wanganui catchment. Map BW18. Grid Ref: E1425216/ N5213724. Altitude 685m. Smyth Hut is located in the head of the Wanganui valley. It is an absolutely stunning wild setting that can be accessed in a long day from the roadend by a fit party, depending on river conditions. Most people take a couple, however. The riverbed up and downstream of the Hut is a mass of huge boulders, cascades, and deep icy pools. In 2013 a big chunk of Mt Evans in the head of the catchment collapsed, bringing a tsunami of water downvalley that took out huge chunks of hillside and wiped out the Smyth swingbridge. The flash flood went around both sides of Smyth Hut leaving it on a small island of forest about 200m long by 50m wide. It would have been an interesting night had anyone been staying there. Just up from the Hut the impressive Buttress of Mt Whitcombe dominates the skyline. Its vertical walls are the abode of Himalayan tahr and chamois. There is the added attraction of a hot spring in the main riverbed 200m downstream from the Hut that can be dug out with shovels kept in the Hut. Smyth Hut has historically been low use due to the ruggedness of the country, averaging around 15 logged visits a year. The majority of hunting parties fly-in to the hut. All of the crossings into the head of the valley require alpine skills, and the main valley route has become increasingly difficult with scouring and flood damage. The hut gets the odd climbing party, usually doing ascents of Mt Whitcombe via the upper Vane Stream and Dainty, Lornty, and Leeb Glaciers.
Access
The most direct access to Smyth by means of a DOC-maintained route up the TL of the valley from Hunters Hut to Smyth Hut.
DOC are aware of this and are intending to do something about the offending bit. The official route following the TL is a mix of quite easy river travel interspersed with tracked detours around bluffs and slips which can get problematic with any new damage. The first one around Poker Bluff climbs high across an actively eroding slip before dropping steeply to the river. It takes a good half an hour to get around a very short section of bluff, so fording to the TR downstream of it, and back to the TL just above is advantageous but not usually possible in spring and early summer. Winter is your best bet when flows are generally lower, or later in the summer when the big snow melts are over. Opposite Froth Creek there is a tricky descent down a narrow rocky chute whose entry point is not visible or marked when coming downriver. Please Note: There is a chain in the chute that has become very difficult to ascend when coming down-valley. In February one party was unable to get up it and had to call a helicopter. A rope may be required to get down it if travelling up-valley. DOC are apparently planning to install a ladder there. This section can be avoided at low river flows by staying on the TR after the Poker Bluff ford. A track detour roughly opposite Spar Creek isn't necessary currently as the offending low rocky bluff can easily be scrambled around.
A section of boulderhopping on an actively eroding section of riverbank just above Poker Gully can't be avoided, but after this it is straightforward travel to roughly opposite Galway Creek. A rough cascade of house-sized boulders starts here with a tracked detour that goes up a small dry creek bed and sidles around into Devastation Creek. You rejoin the riverbed here and it is rough going with boulders, active slips and track remnants to where the terrain becomes more benign. The last half km of track is a highway in contrast to the previous bits. Travel time from Hunters Hut using all the detours is six plus hours for a fit experienced party. This can be shortened considerably at low flows by judicious fords to the TR to avoid these. The tracked sections are in reasonably good condition and DOC recut from Pot Luck Creek to Hut in 2024. Allow 10-12 hours if coming from the Wanganui roadend.
Type
Smyth was one the last NZFS S70 six-bunkers built (1974). It is lined and has woodburner, a long drop toilet, and a roof-fed water tank. There is plenty of flood debris to fuel the wood burner which is a very effective NZFS-era iron box that gets hot enough to cook on. When replacing wood please don't just chuck branches into the shed without cutting them into lengths that fit the burner.
Condition
Smyth Hut is in good condition currently. It was repainted by DOC and had a flue leak repaired in 2019 and was re-roofed in 2021. A new long drop toilet was installed in 2024. There is a sizeable hole in the clearlight sheet where it is nailed to the top plate. It may be low enough down for most of the rain to run off down the side of the hut rather than into it, but it needs to get sorted before it gets any bigger.
Routes
There is a standard crossing from Smyth Hut over into County Stream in the Waitaha via a saddle in the head of Bradshaw Creek. The Evans River can currently be forded just upstream from where it meets the Smyth. The ford is easier in winter when flows are low. The section of the Smyth River up to the 100m contour is very challenging with cataracts and big boulders, many of which are ice-covered in winter. High levels of strength, dexterity and fitness are a prerequisite and a short length of rope to hoist packs probably helpful. The river flattens somewhat at 1000m and is followed to the start of a small gorge at 1080m. Leave the River here and ascend the broad spur on the TL of Bradshaw Creek to a flat bench at the 1600m contour. Head along the bench, passing just East of Pt. 1667m, and drop down a steep eroding scree on the County side. Sidle off this in a NW direction, when possible, to get onto some less steep terrain that gets you down to the valley floor. There is a 2–3-person rock biv a bit further up the basin marked with a cairn around BW18 272 171 which is dry and reasonably roomy but needs levelling work. Heading downstream, there is one small gorge around the 1080m contour that involving a short scrub bash on the TR to negotiate. Travel is bouldery after this for a bit but gets progressively easier and more open. From 980m the stream flattens and is very easy gravel walking to the Blomfield confluence. The track up to County Hut is on the TR of Blomfield Creek about 400m up from its confluence with the County. Allow a full day from Smyth Hut to County Hut in good conditions. Snow gear is essential in the colder months.
The Smyth range can be traversed from the head of Smyth Creek to destinations which include Scamper Torrent Hut and Moonbeam Hut in the Waitaha valley. These are alpine trips and snow gear would be required for most of the year, except perhaps late summer and autumn. Moonbeam can be accessed from the saddle at point 1830m, NE of Mt Barry. Clearview Spur has one steep exposed section below point 1945m that requires down-climbing, but below this it is easy going. The Clearview Spur tops track was trimmed in 2021 and recut to the 775m contour in 2026. It is well marked, drops down the narrow spur separating Dorothy Creek and Moonbeam Torrent, and is accessed from a dry gut in the head of Dorothy Creek. A track exits the TL of the gut in the alpine scrub zone and sidles up onto the ridge and takes you down to the Moonbeam Hut door.
The Wanganui River continues for another kilometre upstream from Smyth Hut, then branches and becomes the Evans River running NE, and Vane Stream running due South. The riverbed up to the confluence is a mass of flood rubble and huge boulders. The Vane is reasonable travel into its head, with the usual large boulder scramble in its lower reaches. Access up onto the Mueller Glacier, and Mt Lord and Strachan Pass is straightforward alpine travel. A high-level traverse is possible from Camp Saddle and Poker Gully basin, along the Lord Range to Blue Lookout and back down to Hunters Hut.
The Evans valley was bored out by the 2013 flash flood and is rough and bouldery travel. A significant number of parties heading up there have had to turn back after being able to ford the Vane. This is usually in high summer when opaque meltwater swells the Stream. At the 1060m contour in the Evans there is a small lake created by the flash flood which has good campsites at its head. From here travel up the Evans Glacier takes you over Full Moon Saddle onto the Bracken Snowfield. The most frequently used access routes onto the Bracken are up the Ramsay Glacier from the Rakaia and over Erewhon Col, or from Whitcombe Pass via the Sale Glacier, the upper Ramsay, and Erewhon Col.
Repairs needed
The clearlight sheet on the roof needs replacing. The shovel needs a new handle.
Provisions on Site
An aluminium wash basin, two large billys, a camp oven, numerous frypans, plates and utensils, an old pressure cooker, a large and small shovel, a broom, a hearth brush and shovel, a metal bucket, and some spare louvre panes, an axe and a bow saw. Under the Hut there are various odds and sods and an aluminium ladder
Smyth Hut and access route are fully maintained by the Department of Conservation Franz Josef.
Location
Wanganui catchment. Map BW18. Grid Ref: E1425216/ N5213724. Altitude 685m. Smyth Hut is located in the head of the Wanganui valley. It is an absolutely stunning wild setting that can be accessed in a long day from the roadend by a fit party, depending on river conditions. Most people take a couple, however. The riverbed up and downstream of the Hut is a mass of huge boulders, cascades, and deep icy pools. In 2013 a big chunk of Mt Evans in the head of the catchment collapsed, bringing a tsunami of water downvalley that took out huge chunks of hillside and wiped out the Smyth swingbridge. The flash flood went around both sides of Smyth Hut leaving it on a small island of forest about 200m long by 50m wide. It would have been an interesting night had anyone been staying there. Just up from the Hut the impressive Buttress of Mt Whitcombe dominates the skyline. Its vertical walls are the abode of Himalayan tahr and chamois. There is the added attraction of a hot spring in the main riverbed 200m downstream from the Hut that can be dug out with shovels kept in the Hut. Smyth Hut has historically been low use due to the ruggedness of the country, averaging around 15 logged visits a year. The majority of hunting parties fly-in to the hut. All of the crossings into the head of the valley require alpine skills, and the main valley route has become increasingly difficult with scouring and flood damage. The hut gets the odd climbing party, usually doing ascents of Mt Whitcombe via the upper Vane Stream and Dainty, Lornty, and Leeb Glaciers.
Access
The most direct access to Smyth by means of a DOC-maintained route up the TL of the valley from Hunters Hut to Smyth Hut.
DOC are aware of this and are intending to do something about the offending bit. The official route following the TL is a mix of quite easy river travel interspersed with tracked detours around bluffs and slips which can get problematic with any new damage. The first one around Poker Bluff climbs high across an actively eroding slip before dropping steeply to the river. It takes a good half an hour to get around a very short section of bluff, so fording to the TR downstream of it, and back to the TL just above is advantageous but not usually possible in spring and early summer. Winter is your best bet when flows are generally lower, or later in the summer when the big snow melts are over. Opposite Froth Creek there is a tricky descent down a narrow rocky chute whose entry point is not visible or marked when coming downriver. Please Note: There is a chain in the chute that has become very difficult to ascend when coming down-valley. In February one party was unable to get up it and had to call a helicopter. A rope may be required to get down it if travelling up-valley. DOC are apparently planning to install a ladder there. This section can be avoided at low river flows by staying on the TR after the Poker Bluff ford. A track detour roughly opposite Spar Creek isn't necessary currently as the offending low rocky bluff can easily be scrambled around.
A section of boulderhopping on an actively eroding section of riverbank just above Poker Gully can't be avoided, but after this it is straightforward travel to roughly opposite Galway Creek. A rough cascade of house-sized boulders starts here with a tracked detour that goes up a small dry creek bed and sidles around into Devastation Creek. You rejoin the riverbed here and it is rough going with boulders, active slips and track remnants to where the terrain becomes more benign. The last half km of track is a highway in contrast to the previous bits. Travel time from Hunters Hut using all the detours is six plus hours for a fit experienced party. This can be shortened considerably at low flows by judicious fords to the TR to avoid these. The tracked sections are in reasonably good condition and DOC recut from Pot Luck Creek to Hut in 2024. Allow 10-12 hours if coming from the Wanganui roadend.
Type
Smyth was one the last NZFS S70 six-bunkers built (1974). It is lined and has woodburner, a long drop toilet, and a roof-fed water tank. There is plenty of flood debris to fuel the wood burner which is a very effective NZFS-era iron box that gets hot enough to cook on. When replacing wood please don't just chuck branches into the shed without cutting them into lengths that fit the burner.
Condition
Smyth Hut is in good condition currently. It was repainted by DOC and had a flue leak repaired in 2019 and was re-roofed in 2021. A new long drop toilet was installed in 2024. There is a sizeable hole in the clearlight sheet where it is nailed to the top plate. It may be low enough down for most of the rain to run off down the side of the hut rather than into it, but it needs to get sorted before it gets any bigger.
Routes
There is a standard crossing from Smyth Hut over into County Stream in the Waitaha via a saddle in the head of Bradshaw Creek. The Evans River can currently be forded just upstream from where it meets the Smyth. The ford is easier in winter when flows are low. The section of the Smyth River up to the 100m contour is very challenging with cataracts and big boulders, many of which are ice-covered in winter. High levels of strength, dexterity and fitness are a prerequisite and a short length of rope to hoist packs probably helpful. The river flattens somewhat at 1000m and is followed to the start of a small gorge at 1080m. Leave the River here and ascend the broad spur on the TL of Bradshaw Creek to a flat bench at the 1600m contour. Head along the bench, passing just East of Pt. 1667m, and drop down a steep eroding scree on the County side. Sidle off this in a NW direction, when possible, to get onto some less steep terrain that gets you down to the valley floor. There is a 2–3-person rock biv a bit further up the basin marked with a cairn around BW18 272 171 which is dry and reasonably roomy but needs levelling work. Heading downstream, there is one small gorge around the 1080m contour that involving a short scrub bash on the TR to negotiate. Travel is bouldery after this for a bit but gets progressively easier and more open. From 980m the stream flattens and is very easy gravel walking to the Blomfield confluence. The track up to County Hut is on the TR of Blomfield Creek about 400m up from its confluence with the County. Allow a full day from Smyth Hut to County Hut in good conditions. Snow gear is essential in the colder months.
The Smyth range can be traversed from the head of Smyth Creek to destinations which include Scamper Torrent Hut and Moonbeam Hut in the Waitaha valley. These are alpine trips and snow gear would be required for most of the year, except perhaps late summer and autumn. Moonbeam can be accessed from the saddle at point 1830m, NE of Mt Barry. Clearview Spur has one steep exposed section below point 1945m that requires down-climbing, but below this it is easy going. The Clearview Spur tops track was trimmed in 2021 and recut to the 775m contour in 2026. It is well marked, drops down the narrow spur separating Dorothy Creek and Moonbeam Torrent, and is accessed from a dry gut in the head of Dorothy Creek. A track exits the TL of the gut in the alpine scrub zone and sidles up onto the ridge and takes you down to the Moonbeam Hut door.
The Wanganui River continues for another kilometre upstream from Smyth Hut, then branches and becomes the Evans River running NE, and Vane Stream running due South. The riverbed up to the confluence is a mass of flood rubble and huge boulders. The Vane is reasonable travel into its head, with the usual large boulder scramble in its lower reaches. Access up onto the Mueller Glacier, and Mt Lord and Strachan Pass is straightforward alpine travel. A high-level traverse is possible from Camp Saddle and Poker Gully basin, along the Lord Range to Blue Lookout and back down to Hunters Hut.
The Evans valley was bored out by the 2013 flash flood and is rough and bouldery travel. A significant number of parties heading up there have had to turn back after being able to ford the Vane. This is usually in high summer when opaque meltwater swells the Stream. At the 1060m contour in the Evans there is a small lake created by the flash flood which has good campsites at its head. From here travel up the Evans Glacier takes you over Full Moon Saddle onto the Bracken Snowfield. The most frequently used access routes onto the Bracken are up the Ramsay Glacier from the Rakaia and over Erewhon Col, or from Whitcombe Pass via the Sale Glacier, the upper Ramsay, and Erewhon Col.
Repairs needed
The clearlight sheet on the roof needs replacing. The shovel needs a new handle.
Provisions on Site
An aluminium wash basin, two large billys, a camp oven, numerous frypans, plates and utensils, an old pressure cooker, a large and small shovel, a broom, a hearth brush and shovel, a metal bucket, and some spare louvre panes, an axe and a bow saw. Under the Hut there are various odds and sods and an aluminium ladder