About Remote Huts

 

About Remote Huts

Top Olderog Biv

(Top Olderog Biv in the Arahura catchment: Photo Andrew Buglass 2004)

Origins Of The Website

This site was created in 2003 to profile a number of remote high-country huts and bivouacs in central Westland that were poorly maintained, unmaintained, and/ or under threat of removal. An online group called Permolat was created in conjunction with the site to coordinate the activites of remote hut users in the active preservation of these structures. Hundreds of these huts along with connecting networks of tracks and bridges were built by the New Zealand Forest Service from the 1950's onward, primarily for animal control purposes. They provided rudimentary shelter for government cullers attempting to curb an exploding introduced red deer population that was decimating high-country ecosystems. The advent of commercial helicopter hunting in the early 70's rendered intensive foot operations obsolete, but the facilities remained, providing hunters, trampers and climbers with a dream-system of remote accommodation. In the mid 80's the newly created Department of Conservation took over management of high-country resources from the NZFS, but under a much more stringent funding regime. Many of the more remote or less used huts and tracks stopped receiving maintenance and fell into disrepair and disuse in the ensuing decades.

Economic Rationalism

DOC in the early years experimented with fashionable "user pays" models as a means of funding and managing its high-country resources. This model doesn't work in areas of low population, or for low-use facilities. Many huts became run down, tracks grew over, and footbridges were washed away or damaged and not repaired or replaced. Deteriorating access and lack of information on routes and hut conditions deterred folk from visiting these areas and resulted in a vicious spiral of lower use that justified continued low or zero maintenance.

DOC's 2003/ 4 Review of High-Country Facilities

In September 2003 DOC undertook a review of its high-country resources with public input, ostensiblty to help determine where to put its money. This resulted in a significant number of the huts in central Westland being designated for "minimal maintenance," which had been happening by default anyhow. Other structures considered too run down, unsafe or in some cases simply unused, were to be removed. The consultation process did have some positive consequences for remote hut users and high-country lobby groups. A number of huts, bivs, and bridges intially proposed for minimal maintenance were granted full maintenance status. Some strategic but overgrown routes that were going to be left unmaintained were reinstated for maintenance. There were losses and trade-offs of as well, some of which can be viewed in the Archive Of Huts Removed Or Lost.

Minimal Maintenance

Around 60 huts and bivs from the Buller down to the Haast ended up in the minimal maintenance category. This is defined as, "two-yearly inspections with minor maintenance that can be done with basic tools during inspections to keep the structures sanitary and watertight." This comprises things like painting, repairs to windows and sealing. Once a hut reaches a stage at which it is no longer considered weatherproof, safe or sanitary, DOC will remove it (by helicopter and at a cost, commensurate to several years maintenance). Removal will also take place if major damage were to occur, such as a tree falling on a hut. It seems inevitable under this regime that minimal maintenance huts and bivs will vanish by slow attrition over time.

Remote Hut Users

Over the years a small and passionate group of high-country recreationalists have continued to use and derive considerable pleasure from remote huts. Many of the structures are situated in stunning, rugged locations and it would be a great loss to us if they went. We figure that if DOC isn't able or willing to look after them adequately, that the next step is to invite the hut users themselves to take on or share some of the maintenance role. This was occasionally happening in an uncoordinated, ad hoc fashion at the time of the Review.

Area Covered By The Site

This website focuses on 50 huts and bivs, mostly in central Westland. If there is a hut that you are interested in or concerned about that isn't on the site, feel free to make contact, as there is some potential to expand the site.

Murphy's Law

Quite unexpectedly, around the time that this site was being created, DOC received a major one-off funding package. In the Hokitika area this was used for a maintenance initiative well beyond the "minimal" level on a significant number of the structures in this category. Over the summer of 2003/ 4 most of the huts on this site, and even two designated for removal, received some kind of attention. This included painting, sealing, general floor and frame repairs, and re-piling. For a few of the huts it was the first maintenance of any kind in 30 years and could extend their shelf life another 15-30 years. DOC used contractors and volunteers to do the maintenance and in some instances the quality of the work was pretty shoddy. Things like nailing roof iron in the troughs rather than ridges, and painting over rust and rot without preparing it. These particular huts are unlikely to get the 15-year boost DOC was hoping for.

The Aim Of This Website

It is unlikely that remote huts will ever have a high priority in the greater scheme of things and as such remain vulnerable to future periods of neglect and/ or removal. The aim of the Remote Huts Website is to raise and maintain awareness of this wonderful resource, and encourage continued use of it by providing up-to-date information on hut and track conditions. We also want to get people interested enough to join Permolat and get involved in informal trackwork, hut maintenance, and hut adoption. This already has had an immediate and measurable a positive effect. An example is Scottys Biv in the Taipo valley which was getting around one visit every 3-5 years and designated for removal. This increased to around 10 visits in a single year after the Biv was profiled, and Scottys is now a maintain-by-community project. This turnaround is extremely encouraging and demonstrates how easily the vicious circle of declining use can be reversed. Some folk have have expressed concerns that too many people may end up going to these places as a result of the publicity, however this is unlikely because of the remote locations of most huts, and the challenging nature of the terrain.

Permolat

Permolat is the name of the online group set up in conjunction with the website. It currently has around 100 members, keeps those interested in remote huts connected, and is a great is a medium for coordinating volunteer maintenance and preservation work. In 2005 the group entered into a "maintain by community" contact with DOC for Scottys Biv. Two further proposals have been submitted for Lower Olderog Biv and Campbell Biv in the Arahaura catchment, which are down for removal. Approval from Mawhera Corporation is needed for these to proceed as the two bivs sit within the Waitaiki Historical Reserve, but DOC has said it will minimally maintain them in the meantime. In 2008 Permolat signed a second "maintain by community" contract for Mid Styx Hut and in February 2009 volunteers re-piled and re-floored the Hut with the asssistance of DOC who flew our materials in free of charge. DOC Hokitika is open to working with community groups and has been helpful whenever we've approached them with proposals.

Informal trackwork by Permolat members and other individuals has become commonplace on trails no longer maintained by DOC in most of the valleys on the site, as well as some frontal country tracks. A Permolat project in 2007 opened up the upper Waitaha valley. Trackwork has also been done in the Kokatahi, Toaroha, Taipo and Mikonui valleys.

How You Can Help

When visiting a "minimal maintenance" or "maintain-by-community" huts you are invited to carry out minor repairs with any tools and materials on site, or notifying us by email of repairs needed. Updates on route and track conditions are always useful. In the case of "minimal maintenance" huts please inform DOC also of any repairs needed, as they still have a maintenance role. If it is a "fully maintained" hut inform DOC, not us. You can also help by keeping any trails DOC has ceased maintaining trimmed and marked. It is a familiar sight now to see trampers in central Westland carrying loppers and a small pruning saw. DOC is currently OK with this as long as it is a pre-existing track, that hand tools only are used, and that their orange markers aren't used. In this area permolat (venetian blind material) is the material historically used by NZFS in the pre-DOC era.

If you are a couch potato, or immobile and arthritic from years of scrub bashing, help us out with a donation. Any good pictures you may have of huts on the site are welcome if sent our way.

DOC Input

DOC Hokitika are open to providing some materials if an individual wants to carry out simple repairs like sealing leaks or replacing louvres, etc. For more complex tasks (painting, replacement of framing timbers or piles etc.) they may co-work with individuals as volunteers, provided they are capable and can meet DOC/ local body building code standards and DOC/ Health and Safety requirements. In specific instances they will consider ferrying materials to a hut site, which they did with Mid Styx. Interested individuals may also be able to accompany DOC staff who undertake repairs. A number went along as volunteers on the 2003/ 4 maintenance programme and feedback from them was positive. DOC has cooperatively co-worked with us and other user groups on a number of projects and have acknowledged a need for better communication with community groups.

Reconsiderations Of Hut Removals

Strong negative public responses to a number of proposed hut removals (probably unanticipated by DOC) have captured the attention of the media. The planned removal of a hut in Kahurangi National park was halted as a result of public pressure. There has been a coinciding increase in coordinated community activity, lobbying, and requests to take on or share maintenance responsibilities for huts and tracks. Levels of use of some remote huts has risen significantly with increased publicity, better quality information on track conditions, and improved access due to informal trackwork. Westland conservancy has stayed pretty much outside of any controversy so far, and repsonded positively to any realistic proposal made by an individual or group as alternatives to removal. They are currently considering retaining Serpentine Hut in the Hokitika (originally designated for removal by 2006) after an approach from local kayakers who want it kept there. Two swingbridges in the Kokatahi valley and one in the Arahura may be be reinstated to maintain, or minimally maintain status as a result of community feedback.

Fully Maintained Huts

There are a number of "fully maintain" huts on the site, which weren't in this category when it the site was created. They ended up being designated as such or redesignated in the Review process. They'll remain on the site for the time being as they are still in remote areas, used at relatively low levels, and still vulnerable over the longer term.

Remote Hut Adoption

A number of minimal maintenance huts on this site have been informally adopted by individuals or groups over the years, kept in immaculate order, and well provisioned with gear, sometimes even food (See Griffin Creek Hut, Browning Biv, Koropuku Hut and Newton Hut). This has made a difference to their condition and probably their level of use to some degree. If an individual or group were to take on responsibility for minding each of the minimal maintenance huts on this site, their survival prospects would be greatly enhanced.

No Free Lunch

It is unrealistic to expect that taxpayers' money be used to fully fund a resource that get used by less than 4% of the population. True believers however, will inform you that a remote hut is not simply a recreational facility, but a gymnasium, movie theatre, church, mental health centre, hunting lodge, hermitage, and much more. If they ever get around to researching it, I'm sure the evidence will show conclusively that remote hut users live longer (if they don't peel off a razorback ridge), have less mental and physical health issues, are more productive members of society, and spend less time in jail, than non-remote hut users. Unfortunately this kind of financial proposition embodies an aesthetic that is unpalatable to bureaucratic bean-counters.

All power to those who consult, lobby, write submissions, and follow processes and protocols. Beware though, that while you are doing this some huts may be falling over. There is another species of human that moans in hutbooks about DOC doing a crap job, but leave relatively simple repairs unattended to. They are interestingly enough, usually the same ones who don't replace the firewood they use, leave a stack of dirty billies, and their rubbish lying about. These are the true free-lunchers who have managed to survive by natural selection over the millenia. I suspect they are the descendants of those who moaned at NZFS about the same things 30 years back. Finally and fortunately there is a third group who, although less patient and perhaps more cynical, have a practical and pragmatic streak that compels them to fix that which is broken, patch that which leaks, and tend to overgrowing trails. May the force be with you.

The Future

It is likely that demand for the remote hut experience will continue to increase with growing outdoor, health and environmental consciousness, and because of pressure and overcrowding on the more popular circuits and National Parks. The names of foreign travellers are starting to appear more regularly in the remote logbooks, which is gratifying and at the same time unsettling, as many of them don't appear to have the the experience, or the gear to tackle the remote New Zealand high-country. A few are dangerously underprovisioned and reach their destinations more by luck than anything. Just one example was a fellow we met after he'd completed a high-level traverse in spring snow in sandshoes with no ice axe. He'd slid off the range that we'd needed to cut steps down, on his backside in free-fall. The majority of alpine searches and body recoveries in recent years have been for foreigners. This leads us to the ubiquitous disclaimer.

A Few Words Of Warning

Please digest the following.

ONE NEEDS TO BE PHYSICALLY FIT, EXPERIENCED SPECIFICALLY IN THIS TYPE OF COUNTRY, AND ADEQUATELY PROVISIONED, IN ORDER TO VENTURE INTO THE REMOTE HUT ZONE.

If you are not, then find someone who is experienced and willing to guide you, or try another activity. Alpine experience in other parts of the world is not necessarily useful for the high-country here, as not all the skills are transferable. Many of the huts and bivs on this site are in remote rugged, mountainous settings, and the tracks to them may be overgrown and in some cases, no longer followable. Some of the huts in alpine or sub-alpine settings can only be approached by high-altitude routes.

Serious bush or scrub-bashing may be required to access these huts. Bush navigation skills and good quality, appropriate gear is essential for this. Rivers (often) and side creeks (usually) are unbridged and rise rapidly during frequent heavy rain. Off piste river or creek travel needs to be done with caution due to the numerous waterfalls and gorges that characterise the watercourses in this type of terrain. Heavy snowfalls, more common in winter, can occur at any time of the year, and sudden extreme weather changes are normal.

Track And Travel Times

The travel times given on this site are provisional and relate specifically to reasonably fit, experienced persons, used to travelling this type of terrain. They cannot be accurately calibrated against the track times provided on the more well-maintained, benched and bridged great walks like the Abel Tasman Track. The estimates provided for open tops travel are for the times of the year when all but the permanent snow areas have melted. Travel may be just as fast in winter, or take considerably longer, depending on snow conditions. Some of the routes described are in alpine areas above the permanent snowline and ice axes, crampons and occasionally ropes may be needed.

Information On This Site

Please inform us if you come across any information on this site that is not correct and we'll update the relevant section. Things change quickly in the hills (washouts, slips, windthrow) and we rely on high-country users to keep us up to speed. Updates will be posted as quickly as possible, but in very low use areas feedback is understandably infrequent. We refuse to take any responsibility for those who are rejuvenated, and restored to optimum physical and mental well-being by your experiences, or conversely, if you ignore the information and warnings provided above and go into these areas when it is clearly beyond your capability.

Contact

Information, comments and suggestions can be emailed to Andrew Buglass at andrew@uchc.org.nz. This is also the contact for those interested in becoming involved at a practical level. An online group called "Permolat" has been set up for this purpose, to connect folk and organise activities.

Andrew Buglass

Hut Photos On This Site

All thumbnail photos on the Hut Pages can be double clicked to provide a full-sized images.

Thanks

A warm thanks to everyone who has helped so far with their time, labour, photos, support, donations and encouragement.

Andrew Buglass 2010